Flat Rubber Roof Repair Kings provides flat rubber roof repair, EPDM roof repair, and flat roof leak repair services in the Roanoke, VA area for both residential and commercial properties. Contact us now for a free estimate.
Flat rubber roof repair in Roanoke, VA costs anywhere from $270 to $990 on average for a single leak, patch, or short seam repair. The price depends on how much membrane is damaged, whether flashing or a seam is involved, whether the insulation underneath is wet, and how hard the roof is to reach. Send us photos for pricing.
Yes, we fix rubber roofs on houses, garages, porches, apartments, stores, and warehouses.
Yes, we cover the Roanoke, VA area. Send us the property address and we'll confirm.
Yes, in most cases, if the rubber is still flexible and the insulation under it is dry. We'd suggest replacement when the membrane cracks when folded, has shrunk off the edges, or more than a quarter of the roof is damaged.
No, condition matters more than age. Most EPDM roofs last 20 to 30 years, and one that's still flexible and dry underneath can usually be patched. Tell us roughly how old yours is.
Most leaks we find start at seams, wall flashing, pipe boots, drains, and edges where the rubber has shrunk. Punctures from foot traffic, branches, and hail come next.
We check the seams, pipes, drains, and edges uphill of the ceiling stain, because water travels under the rubber before it drips. If the source stays hidden, we water test one section at a time.
Yes, we can usually stop the water with a temporary patch or tarp, then make the permanent repair once the roof dries.
No, asphalt roof cement and silicone damage the rubber and make a proper repair harder. Until we get there, put a bucket under the drip and take photos of the stain.
A properly cleaned and primed patch or seam repair usually lasts 5 to 10 years or more. The ones we see fail within a season were usually put on without that prep or with the wrong product.
Usually the patch is in the wrong spot, or it went on without cleaning and primer, or with roof cement. Wet insulation underneath can also keep dripping. We check the whole roof, not just the old patch.
Yes, a small puncture can be patched with an EPDM kit that costs under $100 if you clean and prime it carefully. Leaking seams, wall flashing, and wet insulation are better left to us.
We need the address, the roof's approximate age, how many stories up it is, and where water shows inside. Photos of the stain and the roof help a lot.
No, as long as we can get onto the roof. Tell us whether it's reached by ladder, a hatch, or a window, and whether we can see the ceiling stain inside, since it helps us trace the leak.
Yes, but the landlord or property manager has to approve the work first.
Yes, we can coordinate access, scheduling, and pricing with the board or manager. On condos and townhomes the roof is often shared, so the association may need to sign off.
No, patch and seam repairs usually don't need one. Replacing large sections of membrane, deck, or drainage may, and your local building department makes that call.
Yes, we confirm the price before we start. If we open the roof and find wet insulation or soft decking, we stop and price that with you before going further.
Yes, most roofers have a minimum for small repairs, commonly somewhere between $150 and $500. We confirm the amount with you before anyone comes out.
Yes, sometimes. Policies usually cover sudden damage like a fallen limb, hail, or wind, but not old seams or general wear. We can give you photos and an invoice to send your insurer.
Most patches and pipe boot repairs are done in a few hours. Long seam runs, wall flashing, or replacing wet insulation take longer.
Yes, we clean and prime both sides, apply seam tape, roll it down, and seal the edges with lap sealant. Seams on older roofs were often glued with liquid adhesive, which tends to let go with age.
Yes, we clean and prime the area, then roll on a round-cornered EPDM patch that overlaps the damage by at least 3 inches on every side. The edges get a bead of lap sealant.
Yes, we repair base flashing at walls and parapets. When the rubber has shrunk and pulled the flashing loose, we add new flashing and fasten it back to the wall.
Yes, in most cases. Water still standing 48 hours after rain usually means a clogged drain or a low spot, which we fix by clearing drains or adding tapered insulation or a drain.
Yes, we can make an emergency patch in winter. Most EPDM primers and seam tapes need about 40°F and rising to bond properly, so the permanent repair usually waits for a warmer, dry day.
Yes, we replace the boot with a pre-formed pipe flashing or wrap the pipe in uncured EPDM flashing. Let us know how many pipes or vents come through the roof.
Yes, we reflash skylights and chimneys on rubber roofs, typically for $200 to $500. Tell us whether the water shows up around the skylight frame or on the ceiling nearby.
Yes, we clear the drain and reseal the rubber to the drain flange or scupper sleeve. Clogged and poorly sealed drains are a common source of leaks and standing water.
Yes, we reflash curbs under AC units, exhaust fans, and other rooftop equipment. Tell us what's sitting on the roof and whether it has been moved or replaced recently.
Yes, we cut the blister open, dry it out, and patch over it. If blisters cover a large area, it usually means trapped moisture or failed adhesive, and patching alone won't fix it.
Yes, in many cases we relieve the tension, add new strips of rubber, and refasten the edge. If it has shrunk all the way around, replacement is usually the better call.
Yes, we patch punctures and tears from hail, wind, and fallen branches once the roof is safe to walk. We'll photograph the damage before we repair it so you have it for your insurer.
Yes, we move the stones off the area, repair it, and put them back.
Yes, but tar and roof cement damage EPDM, so the contaminated rubber usually has to be cut out and replaced with a new section.
Rubber roofs are usually black, feel stretchy, and have wide taped seams. TPO and PVC are usually white or gray with heat-welded seams. Send us a photo and we can usually tell.
Yes, we repair those too, but with different materials. TPO and PVC are heat welded, and EPDM patches and primers won't bond to them.
Yes, we look for soft or spongy spots underfoot, bubbling rubber, and stains that keep spreading. On larger wet areas, an infrared moisture scan shows how much has to come out.
Yes, wet insulation has to be cut out and replaced before we patch over it, and the price grows with the size of the wet area. Rotted decking underneath adds more.
No, the rubber has to be dry for primer and tape to bond. We can tarp the area or use a wet-cure sealant to stop the water until it dries.
We use EPDM membrane cleaner, EPDM primer, cured rubber patches or seam tape, uncured flashing for pipes and corners, and lap sealant around the edges.
No, a coating isn't a substitute for repairs. On an older roof that's still dry underneath, we can make the repairs first and then coat it to add years of life.
Yes, sometimes, if the old rubber and the insulation under it are dry and sound. If they're wet or soft, they have to come off first, and we'll check that before quoting.
Yes, once the adhesive cures, which typically takes 24 to 48 hours. Wear soft-soled shoes and keep foot traffic light, since boots and dropped tools cause a lot of punctures.
Twice a year, in spring and fall, and after any big storm.
